How To Install A Helicoil In Aluminum

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To Install A Helicoil Thread Restorer
How To Install A Helicoil In Engine Block
How To Install A Helicoil In Aluminum Metal

How to Install Helicoil in an Aluminum Head Clean the area where the aluminum threads stripped from the hole in the head with a clean dry rag. Fill all holes around the hole with the damaged threads with paper towels to keep aluminum shavings. Install the drill bit contained in a HeliCoil repair. A Heli-coil is really only advisable for a one-time fixed repair. This means the fastener is basically permanent, as opposed to being removed on a regular basis for maintenance or even future repair. I use time-serts exclusively for all thread repairs. This is Ford's recommendation for spark plug thread repair. There is a special kit for this repair.

Spark plugs that haven't been changed for a long time can become one with the cylinder head. Fortunately, it's possible to repair damaged threads instead of scrapping the head. (Photograph by Chris Eckert / Studio D)

Q: Yesterday I was driving home and a spark plug blew right out of the cylinder head. The car was towed to the shop where I'd had a tuneup the day before -- which included changing the spark plugs. The mechanic said he could repair the threads, but my uncle says the cylinder head is ruined and the mechanic should replace it at his expense. The car has about 100,000 miles. Thoughts?

A: There are a number of ways to repair stripped threads. In fact, it may be possible to simply chase the old threads with a tap and clean them up. Or, as illustrated, you can insert a Helicoil. There are several types of repair inserts, but we prefer Helicoils. I'd give your mechanic a shot at fixing the threads before I held his feet to the fire. When a spark plug has had a chance to marry a cylinder head for 100,000 miles, it's not uncommon for the aluminum threads to come out of the head with the plug. (I pull and inspect plugs every couple of years and reinstall them with a small dab of antiseize compound, but that's another column.)

A proper thread repair should last as long as the life of the car. This type of repair can be used for almost any threaded fastener, by the way. And that includes cast-iron, steel and aluminum parts. Warning: Installing a Helicoil or other threaded insert looks simple -- but it's not. Any readers out there who wish to attempt it might want to practice a couple of times on scrap parts.

Start by threading the special Helicoil tap into the remaining threads in the head. This is to ensure the new threads are concentric and parallel with the originals. Continue threading the tap in to cut the new, oversize threads. To avoid getting aluminum chips in the cylinder when retapping the threads, you should coat the tap with grease. The chips will stick to the grease and come back out with the tap. Back out the chip-laden tap, and clean up any remaining chips.

I've also filled the cylinder (before tapping the hole) with oil-soaked clothesline to catch any chips -- but that was in a racing engine with a squish band only a few thousandths of an inch deep. Street engines with a more normal compression ratio should be fine if you are careful, and blow the chips out with compressed air. Mostly, you don't want any chips to find their way out the exhaust port and wind up in the catalytic converter.

Now you can thread the appropriate-length coil over the installation mandrel. There's a raised flat on the mandrel that will catch on the tang in the coil, allowing you to thread the coil into your new threads. The coil is a little bit bigger than the threads, which will keep it in place when you're finished. The tang will pull the coil into place from the inner end. Once the coil is in place, remove the mandrel.

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Now, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to break the tang off. It's prescored to break off cleanly and easily. Do NOT drop the tang into the cylinder! A few aluminum chips will not damage your engine, but a 1/2-in.-long piece of sharp stainless steel wire will tattoo the top of your piston and the combustion chamber before it finally gets out past the exhaust valve.

You are just about finished with your most recent maintenance project, one more bolt to tighten and…. dang it, wouldn’t you know the threads just blew out in the cylinder head. You remove the bolt and it is coated with aluminum, which means that the threads in the head are stripped, not the bolt. Now you are in for work. Stripped threads are rarely any fun, but they are a part of working on vehicles. If you only lost the top one or two threads, you can get by, but if it goes any deeper than that, you need to restore it. That’s when knowing how to install a Helicoil insert comes in handy.

Fixing Stripped Threads

The components of a Helicoil kit are the inserts, a special tap and the installer too. You need to provide the drill bit for most kits.

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In this instance, a tap is not going to cut it, the threads are wasted and while you might be able to get a little bite with a tap, it won’t last. The best bet is to repair the threads with a HeliCoil insert. A HeliCoil is a coiled threaded insert that installs into the part, providing the correct threads for the original fastener. There are several types of thread repair inserts, but the most common is the tanged insert. These inserts have a diamond-shaped cross section with 60-degree threads on the inside and specially designed threads on the outer ring, which grips the walls of the hole.

HeliCoil Insert Types

The HeliCoil insert itself has special threads designed to grab the walls of the part, and the tang is there to help drive the insert into place.

Free running inserts are fully rounded inserts that are slightly larger than the hole they install in. When installed, they grip the walls of the hole through the spring-loaded action. This allows the fastener to easily install and be removed as well. These do not require any special staking or locking. Screw locking inserts have a series of flat spots on the spiral threads, which put pressure on the fastener, holding it in tight. They are reusable, and still maintain their grip on the fastener.

To Install A Helicoil Thread Restorer

How To Install A HeliCoil Insert

Installing a HeliCoil insert requires drilling out the original hole to match the new coil, tapping the hole for the coil, installation, and tang removal. You can purchase the inserts individually or in kits. You need a master kit for the size of threads you are working with if you do not have a tap and die set.

Pro Tip – The proper installation depth of a HeliCoil insert is ¼-1/2 turn below the top of the original hole.

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Remove the fastener from the hole. Inspect the hole and make sure the threads are damaged. Use a little brake cleaner or compressed air to blow out the hole.

The original hole in this aluminum windshield frame is not stripped, but it is not far from it. In order to stop a major problem from occurring, we decided to fix it with a HeliCoil.

Using the correct size drill bit for the insert, drill out the hole. Make sure you drill to the end of the hole, but not deeper than necessary.

The 3/8″ kit we are using requires a 25/64″ drill bit. We drilled out the hole, while ensuring that it was drilled square.

Thread the new hole with the correct tap for the size of insert you have. These taps are not standard 60 degree thread taps, they are specific STI (Screw Thread Insert) tools. Unlike a standard tap, the threads are the same, but the diameter is slightly larger, yielding more grip for the insert.

Once the hole is cleaned out, the supplied tap was used to cut the new threads for the insert.

Here is where the process alters depending on the thread pitch of your fastener, coarse or fine.

Coarse thread – Using the installation tool , mount the HeliCoil insert to the tool, rotate the insert until the tang mates with the drive notch on the tool. Thread the insert into the hole to the proper depth. Then remove the install tool.

We are using a coarse thread insert, so the insert was installed onto the installer tool until the tang hit the stop.

Using the handle for the tap, we installed the insert. You can use a light thread locker, but it is not necessary, the insert is designed to hold itself in place.

Fine thread – Install the HeliCoil insert into the pre-coil tool. This tool compresses the insert to the correct size. Thread the install tool into the insert inside the pre-coil body. Spin the installer tool until it is fully threaded.

How To Install A Helicoil In Engine Block

Hold the pre-coiled assembly to the hole being repaired. Thread the installer tool so that the insert threads out of the pre-coiler and threads directly into the repaired hole until it reaches the proper depth and remove the installer tool.

At this point, the insert is installed, but the job is not over. For all tanged inserts, the tang must be removed. Using a punch that fits snugly into the insert, place the punch into the insert until it reaches the tang. Hit the punch with a hammer. This should pop the tang off. Use a magnet or tweezers to remove the tang.

Here you can see the tang. If it is at the bottom of the hole, you can leave it, but it is best to remove it in all cases.

Using a non-tapered punch, the tang is knocked off. It should only take one or two pops.

The tang can be removed with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

HeliCoils do not require thread sealants or thread locker in order retain the insert, but if you feel the need to use sealant or thread locker, a light coating may be applied to the outer threads, making sure the inner threads are clean. Once installed, HeliCoil inserts are very reliable and trustworthy. They have been used for high-performance applications under high stress, they perform very well in most situations.

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